Last day of classes; Public Memorials Tour

Today, I worked on homework and slept in before grabbing Shwarma for lunch with Lisa.  We then headed on a Public Art tour at Potsdamer Platz.

Our first stop was the collection inside Haus Huth with minimalist art.

We then moved outside to the Daimler Collection of "public art".  These works are 8 commissioned pieces that were put around the city.  Of the 8, there are a few that are not what I would actually call public art.  It seems that the purpose of public art is partly for the education, enlightenment, and pure enjoyment of the people and to create beauty and community in the city.  When you take public art pieces and keep them hidden in private finance buildings, it seems to contradict with the creation of community and enjoyment of the public.  They are saying that these pieces are too important for regular pedestrians to see, which I think is unfair and against the purpose.  I understand placing pieces inside, but they should be available for everyone to see, not kept behind closed doors.  The reputation of Berlin itself is enhanced with these commissions from famous artists, so why waste them by hiding them away?

Robert Rauschenberg!

Blind Worker's Factory

Monday, July 9.

We're in the home stretch! Today I had both my classes in the morning.  At 2:00pm we had an excursion to the Blind Worker's Factory.  Before our tour, we got to explore the cool graffiti by the museum.

Oh, hey there!

Alias is cool.  Anyway.  Our first part of the tour was through the factory turned museum.  This place used to be a brush factory owned by Otto Weidt who hired blind and deaf Jews to work in his factory.  Otto hid illegal Jews in his factory until they were discovered.  He used his power with the police through black market deals and bribery to save his workers from deportation.  He sent care packages to his workers when they were sent to ghettos and even helped one of them escape from Auschwitz and start her life over in the United States.  After the museum, we headed outdoors to see the oldest Jewish graveyard that was opened in 1672 and destroyed destroyed in 1943. More than 10,000 Berlin Jews were buried there.  Outside the cemetery stood a monument for the Jewish people of this neighborhood.  The monument was poignant, showing blank faces starting straight forward.  Only one face was turned towards you as you entered the cemetery.  Moses Mendellson, the father of the Jewish Enlightenment, had a grave here and the stone is still visible.

A memorial that could be utilized and enjoyed by blind people would be interesting.  I think that a relief frieze with raised sculptural images like the ones above would make an interesting and haunting memorial that could be "seen" by the blind through touch.  One does not need to see to experience a relief sculpture, especially if made big enough to show detail.  In fact, instruction could be given to all to close their eyes and feel this sculpture as if they had no sight, giving a more deeper connection and meaning to those lost in the war and the Holocaust.  As the Jews hid and had no sight, neither does the viewer as they attempt to experience this statue.  This is just an idea on how to include the blind, since their history is so connected with that area of Berlin.  I think a sound element would work to engage the viewer further, providing some sort of background music that can vibrate the relief, creating an extra layer of feeling.

Here is a beautiful sunset from yesterday.  We are heading out to start our light drawing soon.

Wannsee Lake

Sunday, July 8.

The day started off slow, but around 1:00 a group of us headed to Wannsee Lake, about an hour long train ride from our hostel.  We set up our lovely Meiniger Hotel towels on the imported sand, and headed in to check the water.  It was a lot warmer than I expected!  After a delicious lunch of currywurst mit pommes, we all headed back in to go swimming.  We went in somewhat deep, went hunting for rocks and mussels (I lost my cool rock), and played volleyball with some random Germans. Oh and guess what... there was a nude beach right next door!  There was only a temporary wall separating them from the regular beach. The things you see in Europe!

Rachel and Alex.

 Lisa and me

Busy beach

 Empty beach after they made everyone get out of the water.

Eventually it started raining and lightening and we had to get out of the water.  I was bummed we had to leave early, but it was such a fun and refreshing time.  I never thought I would have been to a beach in Germany!

After the beach, we stopped in Charlottenberg for the most amazing schwarma I have ever had in my life (and believe me I have had enough on this trip to make up for a lifetime of never tasting schwarma).       Fadi's schwarma was so perfect and spicy and garlicky that I am half tempted to go back sometime before we leave!  We rounded the meal off with some chai tea and baklava which were equally delicious.

When we got back I started doing work for UofL and homework for my classes, and I'm still working on it now!

Diane Arbus and Sammlung Scarf-Gerstberg

Saturday, July 7.

After getting up to dry my laundry and do homework, Mary and I headed down the U2 to the Diane Arbus exhibition.  I was already excited, because I really enjoy her photography, but the title post at the beginning of the exhibit really struck me as an interesting way to go about having a gallery space like this.  Instead of arranging the images by theme or chronology, the point is for the works themselves to guide the viewer's gaze.  Each image should be viewed through the lens of the individual's experience, not guided by a theme or time period.  I was able to realize the patterns on my own, without letting words or explanations guide me.  While I don't think this would work with most museums, Arbus' work really lends itself to this type of experience.  The point of her images is for these people to speak for themselves.

"I do feel I have some slight corner on something about the quality of things.  I mean it's very subtle and a little embarrassing to me, but I really believe there are things which nobody would see unless I photographed them."

- Diane Arbus

Boxer With Punching Bag, 1964

The Backwards Man, 1961

Five Members of the Monster Fanclub, 1961

Next, we went all the way Charlottenberg to see the Sammlung Scharf-Gerstberg museum of Surrealist Art.  The museum was smaller than expected, but so good!  I love the Surrealist work, especially Rene Magritte.

There were only a few Magritte's and one Giacometti which I was really disappointed in.  This painting by Magritte, Gaspard the Nightwatcher, was my favorite.  I also enjoyed many of the other works.  We weren't allowed to take pictures in either museum/exhibit which is why these are taken from the internet.

It was a good day, even though Mary and I got poured down upon on our way back to the U-Bahn.  We got Falafels for a very late lunch.

Altes Museum and Turkish Market

Friday, July 6.

Today in the morning, Mary, Meagan, Lisa, and I went to Museum Insel.  First we visited the Altes Museum, because I really wanted to see the Greek and Roman art.  The Greek art was interesting, though the Roman stuff is what I really wanted to see.  The museum was smaller than I expected, though they definitely saved the best room for last.  The viewer was lead through the museum in chronological order, moving through the Greek period, to Etruscan art, and finally on to the Romans.  Here is a cool architectural detail in the center, a rotunda with about 15 different statues of Greek/Roman gods and goddesses.

The last room dealt with the Roman Empire, my favorite period of history.  After taking multiple classes on Roman art history, it is fun to actually see some of the objects and images of people I had studied.

Here is Gaius Lucius, grandson to Emperor Augustus.  He was adopted by Augustus as his heir, though he died at a young age before he could ever be Emperor.

Emperor Marcus Aurelius as a young boy.

Wooden funerary tablets of Roman soldier in Northern Africa.  These were placed over the head of the coffin or sarcophagus.

Next I went to visit the Neues Museum again after the others went to the Alte National Gallery.  I wanted to see the third floor of stone age artifacts, but it was closed! So I ended up just wandering around, checking out the bust of Nefertiti again, and some of the other Egyptian work.

After the museums we tried to find the Turkish Market, which took a while, but eventually we made it. It was fun and busy and I got some linen scarves for 2 euro!

Hamburger Bahnhof

Thursday, July 5.


Today we had class at 8AM so I was up and at 'em early.  After class, homework, ice cream for Andrew's birthday, and lunch, we headed out to Hamburger Bahnhof, a contemporary art museum transformed from an old train station.

Inside, the museum was a little confusing, and we did a lot of back tracking when trying to figure out where to go.  I was hoping for more information about the space itself, since it was unique compared to other museums.  Instead we started to wander, as it seems is common amongst art museums.  We first moved into an architecture/installation exhibit, with each large room dedicated to a certain artist.  Each room started off with a text piece in English and German stating the artist’s name and a sort of artist statement discussing their past works and the current piece of display.  Some even contained sketches or sculptural models which pertained to the artwork, which added another layer of connections between artist and viewer.

Another unique feeling I got from this museum was a tension between wanting to touch and physically engage with the objects and not knowing if you are allowed to do so.  In most museums, paintings or display cases hang on walls, while sculptures or other pieces stand on pedestals.  Bahnhof reminded me of a clean, white, and organized version of Kunsthaus Tacheles, with installations and sculptures sitting right in the middle of the floor.  Viewers had to gauge what other viewers were doing, and what the guards were doing to decide whether it was okay to move into a space or engage physically with the works.  One piece allowed viewers to draw on pieces of paper to add to the artwork, which I was hesitant to do at first, but ended up doing so in the end because it is fun to draw.  Another piece had a small doorway, which I walked into since the guard didn’t say anything when I got close.

Hmmm should I venture inside?

A piece I enjoyed in particular was “Room with my Soul Left Out, Room that Does Not Care” a physical space inspired by a dream of the artist.

Our next stop was a temporary exhibit on sculpture, in this case, Light Sculpture.  The artist creates lights which project from the ceiling and from the walls, and using smoke machines, the lights create sculptural forms.  Here is Mary, having fun inside one of the light sculptures.  This was such a fun and interactive exhibit, it really made the museum worthwhile.

Lazy Day

Wednesday, July 4.

Today was a super lazy and relaxing day! I get a little worried that I'm wasting time if we're not running around all over the city, but it was nice to just chill for a day.  I shopped a bit with Lisa, Alex, and Rebecca in the morning, finding some really cute shops.  In the afternoon, Meaghan, Sara, Hayden and I went to the Volkspark Friedrichshain, a really huge and awesome park! I got a lot of journaling done, and a lot of people watching as well.

It was a lazy day, but this weekend is going to be very busy so I am okay with it. Happy Independence Day!

Naturkunde Museum and Bach Nacht

Tuesday, July 3.

In the morning, Mary, Marcy and I headed over to see the Naturkunde, Natural History, Museum.  This museum was a lot different from the other Natural History museums I have been to, the Field museum and the Smithsonian.  What impressed and surprised me the most was that two of the main exhibits dealt with what is usually strictly behind the scenes business.  Here we see over 1 million specimens of sea life, reptiles, and amphibians preserved in jars filled with ethanol.

It was strange to see, but so interesting to get a glimpse of what goes on behind the scenes in museums dealing with natural history.  Another behind the scenes exhibit dealt with the history of taxidermy and model sculpture practices in museums, and how they have evolved over time, creating a narrative machinery from past to present.  It was as if this museum was not just on Natural history, but the HISTORY of Natural History and its study and how museums portrayed their findings to the viewer.

We of course looked at the dinosaur bones, which is always a must see.  This young man seemed to enjoy the dinosaurs very much.

Lastly, we walked into the evolution.  At first glance, you see what appears to be a cabinet of curiosity, filled with colorful birds, exquisite insects, and monstrous lions.  It is almost overwhelming to look at, fantastic and unbelievable.  An exhibit in front allows you to scroll over any animal and read it's name.  When you walk past this cabinet, you see the mission and actual information.  What I loved about this exhibit was that it provided specific examples of certain evolutionary practices or traits in the animals they chose, and then provided an interesting text describing why a certain animal looks a certain way, why there are so many different types of lady bugs, why mutations happen etc.  The animals and examples draw the viewers in, building their curiosity, and almost beckoning them to read the text.  I thought this was a very unique way to draw the viewer in, and still educate them at the same time.

In the evening, our group attended Bach Nacht at the Berlin Cathedral.  The inside of the cathedral was beautiful, and I am very grateful to have been able to have this experience.  Despite this, the music was surprisingly quiet, and I could not see the orchestra at all which caused me to get very fidgety.  While I think this is a great way to use this space, I think that improvements could be made so that all would enjoy the performance.  Adjusting the acoustics somehow will make it easier to hear, and be immersed in the music, while bringing in some sort of temporary stage would allow to audience to see their performers.  The Cathedral seems to hold onto traditional powers, where those with the most money can have good seats and hear and see the music, while the rest belong stuck in the back without sight or hearing.

Lanna and I in front of the Cathedral.

Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof and Kreuzberg

Monday, July 2.

Today in the morning I was feeling a little under the weather after all the get up and go of Munich, but I decided to check out the Dorotheenstadtischer Friedhof, an old cemetery in Berlin home to many famous faces, included the architect Schinkel, who built many buildings in Berlin.  It was very calming and relieving to get out on my own, without having to be with 30 other people (no offense to my lovely KIIS group).  Sometimes you just need to explore on your own and take your time on what you want to see.

I enjoyed seeing this cemetery, and I spent a lot of time working on my photos for class.

After grabbing a quick burrito for lunch and ice cream for Sara's birthday, I went to some thrift stores with Rebecca, Mary, and Alex before heading back to rest because I've been sick.  Our excursion this evening was to Kreuzberg for a quick tour, and light drawing in front of the East Side Gallery which got postponed due to rain.  As we see over and over again, there is a difference between street art and graffiti, though it is not black and white.  Here is an interesting guy we found, while not done by some "famous" street artist we have studied, still is a very interesting, fun, and colorful piece.

Here is a great example of the temporality of street art, a mural done just days before for the European Cup final which was last night.

For this tour, I was looking more at the decayed, graffiti side of what we see, because one of my words is verhall, or decay.  I particularly like this image.  I don't normally notice these types of things, but when you really look you see miniature still lifes all around.  Here are some bottle caps piled neatly together, as if someone had done it on purpose.  I couldn't resist the grayness of the whole image, and the peeling wall and graffiti.

Here we have another more famous image, quite opposite of what I had been concentrating on for this trip.

I'm sad we missed out on light drawing, but hopefully it works out next week!

Munich Weekend

Friday, June 29 to Sunday, July 1.

Happy July!

Friday: Left at 5:30am for our train to Munich.  The ride was long, but you do what you gotta do.  As soon as we got to Munich, you could tell it was a lot ritzier than Berlin.  We were in a downtown area when we got there, and you could just see the streets lined with designer stores.  We split for lunch, and met up again afterwards.  I can say that Munich is definitely more expensive than Berlin.  After reconvening we took a walking tour, first looking inside an old Catholic church.  It was absolutely stunning. I love the architectural details of old churches.

 We also saw the small “memorial” spot where German socialist writer, Kurt Eisner, was murdered.  This memorial is interesting, because most people, even residents of Munich, walk over it every day without even knowing what it is.  This inconspicuous memorial provides interesting questions.  Should memorials be obvious, like the Holocaust Memorial in Berlin, or is it okay for them to be inconspicuous, making people seek them out instead, much like this one, or the book burning memorial at Humboldt University.

Beautiful Munich.

 Next, we stopped by a park area where Hitler spent much time, including a café.  We had to go through security to get into the park because their were anti-war demonstrators protesting the military memorial that was taking place in this area later.  More memorials and then we took some time to decompress in a nice park.  German ducks are strange!

More walking than Hofbrauhaus for dinner.  It was a crazy mess of tourists in there, I much prefer quieter local places.  The evening was fun, despite a mix up with our bill.  Luckily Pizzo was there to save the day.

Mmm Bavarian pretzel.

Saturday: Today’s morning and early afternoon was spent at the Dachau Concentration Camp museum and memorial.  The first place we walked through was the museum, which chronicled the history of the Holocaust and World War II and more specifically, the history of Dachau itself.  Again, much like at Sachsenhausen, I really appreciate the individualized stories that the museum portrays.  The viewer is lead through a series which included every type of prisoner in Dachau- political, Soviet, Jewish, homosexual, etc., but included stories and photographs of individual people as well.  These added details are always touching and sobering, giving actual stories and faces to the masses that were imprisoned at these camps.

A Ukrainian prisoner who escaped and was brought back multiple times.

The number of memorials in this camp surprised me, it seemed more of a memorial site than a museum.  There was a Jewish memorial, which reminded me a lot of the Tower memorial at the Jewish museum.  It was a dark, large space with only a small window of light leading the viewer in and entrancing them. 

There were more memorials back in the area of the gas chambers and crematoria, where the majority of the outright murders took place.  It is amazing that such a beautiful natural area could be the location where thousands of brutal murders took place.

The gas chambers and cremation ovens were haunting, you could see that every visitor felt the need to move through very quickly.

 After the camp, we ate at another bier garten. Mmm schnitzel and radler!  We had a break to go shopping at the many stores in Munich and I got a Bayern Munich shirt and things at H&M.  Wine and appetizers at a Greek restaurant were fun.

Sunday: We had a quick tour of Nazi structures in Munich, including the building where the Munich conference took place.  Lunch and then train ride home!  It's good to be back in Berlin!